The first
fire.
Before the tables, before the name, there was a grill in an empty room.
We lit the fire before we had written a menu. The room was cold, the extraction loud, and there were no guests to cook for. Still, the smell of wood held in the walls.
A restaurant starts before opening night. It starts in the small decisions: where a plate is put down, which supplier gets called again, when a cook waits rather than turns the heat up.
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